Current Environment: Our Tinkatonks kittens are raised indoors in a loving environment. And as my husband will confirm thoroughly spoilt. Tinkatonks cats have free run of the house and are in a well socialised environment. Lots of cuddles and kisses and playtime with the grandchildren. Your kitten will be allowed to be collected at approximately 12 weeks of age. Settling In: Your new Tonkinese kitten may fret for the company of his/her siblings and mother. They do not like to be locked away in a cold laundry but like to be part of the family, sleeping cosily on someone's bed. It is best they are kept in a warm safe environment. Check areas for hazards or where the kitten may get trapped (like behind washing machines etc), due to being both small and curious. If it is normal for you to be away from the house during the day your Tonkines kitten will be very lonely. As they are a very sociable breed it is best to have a pair so they have company. The kitten may display naughty behaviour to get your attention especially if it has been alone all day. Again it is probably better to have two kittens. NEVER discipline your kitten by hitting him/her. Your kitten will respond well by you ignoring the unwanted behaviour when the it occurs and continue to ignore the kitten until the behaviour stops. Kitten Play: Try to have a play time each day to provide your kitten with stimulation and interaction. Simple toys like a ribbon on a stick, small cardboard boxes, paper bags, or fluffy socks often entertain the kitten without having to buy expensive cat toys (which often they won’t play with). When playing with your new kitten refrain from using your hands or feet in play as your kitten will quickly learn to attack these when you don’t want them to, and as they get bigger their teeth and claws get sharper. A cat scratching pole is a must to prevent the kitten learning to scratch on your furniture and a cat tunnel will also provide hours of fun. Dietary Needs: Kittens require a balance of fats, CHO and proteins for their growth and development, which are not in adult cat food, so it is best to feed them a kitten food until they are approx 10-12months of age. It is best to introduce a new food slowly so the kitten’s digestive system has time to adjust. Any change even from one brand to another initially it may cause a change in bowel habits, but usually settles down after gradual introduction. Ensure your kitten has plenty of fresh water that is changed daily. As they get older they love to have a treat such as uncooked chicken necks or chicken wings. Our kittens are fed Science Diet wet and dry as well as raw minced beef. Vet Care: It is recommended by my local vet that your kitten have in the first year three F3 vaccinations; one at 8 weeks the second at 12 weeks, again at 16 weeks and then annually. If your kitten is let go outdoors and is in contact with other cats (which I do not advise) your vet may also recommend the feline AIDS vaccination (FIV). Check these regimes with your local vet after you pick up the kitten. Your kitten will come with it’s first vaccination. It is recommended that de-sexing should be done at around 4-6 months for a male and female. The female can come onto heat at approx 4-5 months of age and then continue every 2-3 weeks, which can cause complications so it is best to de-sex her before this occurs. If your kitten or cat displays any signs of illness they should be taken to the vet immediately. Worming and flea treatment: Our kitens are wormed from 6 weeks of age and every 2 weeks until they are 3 months then monthly until 6 months then as recommended by the worm treatment used. Flea treatment should start at about 2-3 months depending on the brand used. Combination treatments are available. Be sure to read the product labels and check with your vet regarding the regime they recommend. Toilet Training: Your kitten will be toilet trained however as the kitten is going into a new environment there may be a few accidents. Use the same kitty litter as the breeder and if you want to change, slowly substitute portions of the kitty litter used with the one you want to use. This allows the kitten to become familiar with the new kitty litter and then they will be quite happy to use it. Initially have the kitty litter available openly to the kitten and then slowly move it to the area where you want the kitten to go (such as the laundry). We use the kitty litter brand "Breeders Choice" . Grooming: Your kitten will have had their nails cut several times already and it is a good idea to continue with weekly or fortnightly clippings to keep the nails blunt. Do not clip the nails back near the pads as this area contains blood vessels and nerves. Avoid clipping any length of the nail that looks pale pink. Cut the front one only as there is no need to cut the back set of claws. Cats are generally clean animals that self clean by licking their coat and genital areas. It is a good idea to brush them once a week to remove any loose hair and this may decrease or prevent your cat vomiting up fur balls
NOTE: The information and advice given in this website is by no means the only advice that is available when learning about caring for your new kitten. It is a good idea to make an appointment with your experienced local vet to discuss the care of your kitten. They are a wealth of knowledge when any problems arise with you new kitten. The second vaccination is a good opportunity to have a discussion about any concerns or care requirements you may have about your kitten. | 
 |
|
